Hermès brought a moody, after‑dark energy to Paris Fashion Week with its Fall/Winter 2026 womenswear show, held at the Garde Républicaine. Guests walked over a floor of thick moss before models appeared through a glowing circular opening, like a low‑key moonrise, and moved along a raised, winding runway.
The house streamed the full presentation on its own site, keeping the focus firmly on cut, leather and movement rather than big stunt staging.Designer Nadège Vanhée built the collection around leathers that actually looked lived‑in: long coats that swished when the models walked, zip‑front minis and sleek cycle shorts.
The palette stayed in that twilight zone the reviews kept mentioning — inky blues and greens, with sudden flashes of orange, oxblood and yellow so it never felt flat. Reuters highlighted how the pieces felt like “biker looks in dusky colours,” more about a woman getting across town at night than posing for street style photographers.
Up close, the details did most of the talking. Tight leather dresses came with off‑centre zips that opened onto contrast shirts, long brown coats were finished with oversized sheepskin collars, and aviator jackets were paired with glossy lambskin cycle shorts. Ostrich leather ran through the lineup — on jackets, jodhpurs and an orange, front‑zipped jumpsuit belted at the waist — which runway write‑ups flagged as one of the key textures of the season for Hermès.
The tailoring stayed narrow and clean, with double‑breasted jackets and slim cigarette trousers in deep brown and metallic burgundy picking up where last year’s more fitted “Leather Dandy” direction left off. It all added up to a collection that didn’t shout but still felt sure of itself: expensive, practical and a bit tough, exactly what you’d expect from a house that knows its customer doesn’t need a logo to make a point.
